Paris Haute Couture Week 2026: Feathers and Elegance Unveiled
Fashion’s Season of Change: Highlights from Paris Haute Couture Week
Paris Haute Couture Week for spring/summer 2026 has delivered a season of transformation, with major luxury houses like Dior and Chanel unveiling groundbreaking collections. The event also marked significant milestones, including Armani’s first couture collection without the oversight of its founder, Giorgio Armani, who passed away last September at the age of 91. Meanwhile, Valentino presented its first couture collection since the passing of its founder, Valentino Garavani.
Chanel: A Feathery Flight of Fancy
New artistic director Matthieu Blazy made his debut haute couture collection for Chanel, drawing inspiration from birds and nature. The show took place in the Grand Palais, where the space was transformed into an enchanted and psychedelic forest featuring giant mushrooms and pink weeping willows. Blazy aimed to "probe and explore the heart of Chanel" with his designs, following his acclaimed first ready-to-wear women's collection in October.
The collection featured sheer silk muslin alongside Chanel tweeds, transitioning into whimsical, avian-inspired styles. Blazy referenced the extravagant plumage of various birds, from the roseate spoonbill to the humble crow, emphasizing the idea of the feather throughout the collection. Attendees included stars such as Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa, who admired the intricate designs that blended earthly beauty with a touch of magic.
Armani: A New Era Without Giorgio
Armani unveiled its first haute couture collection without the guidance of its founder, Giorgio Armani. The collection was overseen by his niece, Silvana, who had worked alongside him on women's ready-to-wear. The new wardrobe aimed to be "like classic Armani, but with a touch of originality," featuring fluid satin trouser suits, sparkling evening gowns, and blouses re-embroidered with pearls. This marked a significant shift for the brand, signaling a new chapter in its storied history.
Dior: Nature and Ceramics Inspired
Dior designer Jonathan Anderson drew inspiration from nature and his love of ceramics for his debut haute couture collection. The collection featured floral motifs on fabrics and accessories, while sculptural bulbous dresses were inspired by the work of Kenya-born ceramicist Magdalene Odundo. Anderson emphasized the importance of learning from nature, comparing haute couture to a living ecosystem that is "evolving, adapting, enduring."
Notable pieces included dresses with spherical birdcage-inspired silhouettes and transparent vest tops paired with gathered dresses. The show attracted high-profile attendees, including actors Jennifer Lawrence and singer Rihanna, as well as Amazon CEO Jeff Bezos and his wife, Lauren Sanchez.
Valentino: A Somber Opening with Theatrical Flair
Valentino's first couture show since the house founder Valentino Garavani's funeral opened under a sombre shadow, with many guests fresh from the ceremony. The show featured a unique set design, with VIP guests guided through near-darkness to their "seats": simple stools set against circular pods, each punctured by a small viewing window.
When the show began, the blinds lifted, and the classical music soundtrack was interrupted by the sharp punctuation of barking dogs. Models appeared like mannequins behind glass, creating a couture peep show. The set design leaned into the idea of a curated gaze, with each guest seeing only a slice of the runway. The atmosphere was described as sterile and futuristic, adding an unsettling edge to the presentation.
Creative director Alessandro Michele, known for his maximalist approach, used restriction as a hook, rationing spectacle rather than flooding the room with it. While the collection featured disco sheen and bold sleeves, it often felt restrained compared to his usual style. Despite this, the show demonstrated Michele's ability to stage an event, even if the collection itself was more cautious.
Conclusion
Paris Haute Couture Week for spring/summer 2026 has showcased a range of innovative and transformative collections. From Chanel's feathery flight of fancy to Dior's nature-inspired designs, each house brought its own unique vision to the runway. As the fashion world continues to evolve, these shows highlight the creativity and artistry that define haute couture.
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