My SGR Journey: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

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A Journey on Tanzania’s Standard Gauge Railway

Traveling on Tanzania’s Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) for the first time was an experience that mixed admiration with frustration. The SGR is presented as a symbol of modernity, and while it delivers on some fronts, it also reveals the challenges of balancing infrastructure development with effective service.

The Positive Aspects of the SGR

The most notable positive aspect of the SGR is its speed and efficiency. Traveling from Dar es Salaam to Dodoma takes just three hours, a significant improvement over the eight-hour journey by road. The railway offers a safer and more comfortable alternative to the treacherous highways filled with potholes and unpredictable traffic.

Booking the ticket was straightforward, with multiple payment options available. At the station, the staff were friendly and welcoming—something rare in government services. The train departed on time, and the cabins were clean and well-maintained. Even the toilet facilities were impressive: clean, with running water, soap, and toilet paper. In a country where such amenities are often lacking, this was a pleasant surprise.

The Disappointments and Inconsistencies

Despite these positives, the experience was not without its drawbacks. One major issue was the pricing structure. I paid Sh241,000 for a return ticket on the so-called Royal Express, only to learn later that similar journeys on the Ordinary Lines cost as little as Sh35,000. This discrepancy raised questions about the value of the premium service. The Royal Express offered the same seats, layout, and amenities as the regular service, with no added benefits like Wi-Fi or dining cars.

The train was also extremely cold, with windows that could not be opened. This made the journey feel more like being trapped in a refrigerated container than traveling through Tanzania. Additionally, there were empty seats on both trips, which raised concerns about whether the pricing model was sustainable.

Bureaucratic Hurdles and Restrictions

Another point of frustration was the excessive security measures. Passengers were required to arrive two hours early, undergo lengthy checks, and follow procedures that seemed unnecessary for a domestic train. These routines added no real safety benefit but significantly increased the travel time.

Food and drink restrictions were equally perplexing. While passengers were allowed to bring grapes, they were charged extra for them, as if the fruit posed a threat to the train’s aerodynamics. On my return trip, I was forced to throw away two bottles of water and an unfinished soda, despite having not eaten all day. The reason given was “regulations,” but when I asked why drinking water was prohibited, the response was simply, “It is the regulation.”

Upon further inquiry, it became clear that the real motive behind the restriction was revenue protection. By banning outside food and drinks, the railway ensures that passengers purchase items from onboard vendors. This policy reflects a broader issue: the SGR is not designed to serve passengers, but rather to protect the interests of the system itself.

The Need for a Shift in Philosophy

While the SGR is a powerful piece of infrastructure, its success depends on more than just the physical train. It requires a shift in mindset—one that prioritizes passenger experience over bureaucratic control. Until the SGR adopts a philosophy that values people over profit, it will struggle to fulfill its potential.

Infrastructure can be built, but excellence must be cultivated. The attitude of treating passengers as subjects rather than customers is a recipe for failure. If the SGR is to become a true symbol of modern Tanzania, it must learn to serve its people, not the other way around.