Elegant Horses: Hermès and More for the Year of the Fire Horse

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Equestrian Motifs in Contemporary Jewelry

As the Year of the Horse approaches, the jewelry world is once again captivated by the majestic creature that has shared a long and profound relationship with humanity. The Lunar New Year, which begins on February 17, marks the end of the Year of the Wood Snake and the beginning of the Year of the Fire Horse. In Chinese astrology, each zodiac year is defined not only by its animal but also by one of five elements—wood, fire, earth, metal, or water. The combination of the animal and element is considered deeply significant, shaping how the year is interpreted and understood.

The most recent Year of the Horse was in 2014, with the Wood Horse, followed by the Water Horse in 2002, the Metal Horse in 1990, and the Earth Horse in 1978. The last Fire Horse year, known for its intense energy, occurred in 1966. This recurring cycle of the horse has inspired many to reflect on the qualities associated with this symbol.

In the Chinese zodiac, the horse is often linked with traits such as speed, confidence, stamina, and the ability to overcome obstacles. These characteristics have made it a powerful emblem of vitality throughout centuries of Chinese culture. People born under the horse sign are often described as energetic, perceptive, and naturally inclined toward independence. Across Asia, the horse has long represented movement and promise, frequently appearing in Tang dynasty sculptures and Lunar New Year paintings, where its gallop symbolizes optimism for good fortune and a smooth path ahead.

Jewellery traditions around the world have incorporated the horse in various forms. From the gold harness fittings of the Scythians, a nomadic culture known for its horse-centric art, to Hellenic signet rings carved with steeds and chariots, the horse has been a consistent subject for jewellers. It has appeared on amulets worn for protection, on brooches that signify lineage or rank, and on small charms exchanged as wishes for luck.

As the next Year of the Horse draws near, equestrian motifs are becoming more prominent in recent jewellery releases. Some designs present the horse in figurative forms, while others explore its mythology or symbolism.

Notable Jewellers Embracing Equestrian Themes

Cece Fein Hughes, founder of London-based Cece Jewellery, takes her storytelling approach with her Wild Horse signet ring, part of her A Traveller's Tale collection. Designed in yellow gold, the piece features a piebald horse rearing in the moonlight, inspired by a story within the collection about two lovers preparing an escape. Hand-painted with champleve enamel and set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the ring connects to themes of desire and freedom.

Greek jeweller YSSO, founded by Alexia and Stalo Karides, draws inspiration from the classical world, where horses were revered as companions of gods and heroes. Their Aethon collection takes its name from one of the immortal horses associated with Ares, the Greek god of war. The collection includes a necklace and brooch shaped like a horse’s head.

Roxanne First, a London jeweller known for her work with Meghan Markle, has created colorful charm necklaces that channel the playful side of horse iconography. Her resin charms spell out words like “Wild,” “Cowgirl,” “Howdy,” and “Cowboy,” tapping into the pop cultural mythology of the horse as a symbol of mischief.

Lionheart, founded by Danish sisters Joy Haugaard and Sarah Haugaard, has built an entire collection around the horse. Its Legacy line includes pendants, medallions, earrings, and rings centered on sculpted horse heads or profiles in gold, with motifs repeated at different scales, from small charms to larger statement pieces.

Hermès, a French maison with deep roots in horsemanship, has always had the horse at the heart of its identity. Originally a harness and saddle maker, the brand’s creative director Pierre Hardy recently launched the Galop collection, paying tribute to its early creations. The pieces reimagine the clean lines of saddlery in rose gold and diamonds, capturing the silhouette of the horse through smooth, sensuous curves.

Anna Hu, an Asian artist-jeweller known for her nature-inspired pieces, has created the Ma Shang Feng Hou brooch, a tableau of white gold set with rubies, orange sapphires, cabochon emeralds, and sapphires, along with yellow diamonds, brilliant-cut diamonds, and pink sapphires. The design depicts a golden horse with a small monkey clinging to its back, symbolizing the Chinese idiom “ma shang feng hou,” a wish for rapid success.

Jade Trau, based in New York, nods to the horseshoe, one of mankind’s oldest protective symbols. With her gold horseshoe pendant, trimmed with cobblestone pave white diamonds, she presents the motif as a simple, modern talisman of luck.

Expect to see more equestrian themes in the coming months, as jewellers continue to draw inspiration from the enduring legacy of the horse.